Test - Junior Rigging

This test entails rigging a boat fully such that it is sail-worthy, and then de-rigging it.

Once you have it rigged, call over a Senior to inspect your work.  The Senior will ask you to point out a few things, and also likely ask you to show how to reef, lower sails, etc.  Then you'll have to derigg the boat and put it back in the yard.  Once done, call over the Senior to check your work.  Then get signed off.

IMPORTANT:  Be very familiar with the use and function of the forestay tensioner.  Issues surrounding this component are the most common reasons people have to take the test again another day :-)




HOW TO RIG A DINGHY
(These are general instructions only; see the specific rigging instructions for the Bahias and P15 below).

Start with the paperwork. Sign up on the sailboat signout sheet in the clubhouse.

Select a hull from the yard, checking carefully for Do Not Sail signs or missing parts. Be sure
the hull has a rudder, tiller, hiking stick, hull drain plug(s), anchor, mainsail, jib, mainsheet,
jibsheets, and at least one paddle.

Pick up some lifejackets (a.k.a personal flotation devices, or PFDs) from the lifejacket container.


Using the Hoist

The sling is either by the hoist or in the yard, where it should be hanging on the white sails
locker in the BBQ area.

Attach the sling to the hoist and the boat. Move the dolly and swing the hoist to position the
hook over the boom. Make sure the sling is over the boom, not under it. Make sure the boat is
untied from the dolly.

Check the hull for water. The hull has one or two drain plugs—2 on the JY15, one on the rest.
Pull out the plug, raise the hull with the hoist, tip the hull back to drain water.

Be sure to put that hull drain plug back in! (If you don’t, water will force its way inside the hull,
and after a few minutes of sailing, you may notice that the hull is starting to sink, usually
signaled by water accumulating on the cockpit floor.) Check the hull drain plug again before
you sail!

Before hoisting the hull over the water, drape the bow painter around the starboard shroud where
you can get it easily. Hoist the hull as high as it will go, then push it out over the water while
holding the bow painter. Then walk out onto the ramp with the bow painter, and pull it over the
water. With two people, one pulls the bow painter while the other works the hoist. If you’re
alone, tie the bow painter to the ramp railing, then go lower the boat.

DON'T LET ANYONE GET UNDER THE BOAT WHEN IT'S HOISTED!  If you need to
raise the centerboard while the boat is on the hoist, use a windsurfer mast. Don’t let other boats
get under yours while it’s hoisted.

Don’t let the shrouds or spreaders (horizontal bars that help the shrouds to support the mast)
touch the hoist! If you bang a spreader on the hoist, you may bend it and it’ll be your job to
replace it.

Tie the bow painter to the cleat under the hoist, and crawl onto the boat, keeping your weight as
low as possible to avoid tipping the boat over. Go around the mast quickly and crouch in the
middle of the cockpit, keeping your weight low. Lower the centerboard, then go back and lower
the rudder. Cleat the rudder downhaul and tighten the clamp screw, too, if it has a handle (the
Bahias have wing nuts, the P15’s have single handles).

If the tide is low, only lower the centerboard and rudder until they’re an inch or two above the
mud. Lower them all the way once the boat is out in deep enough water.

Now take off the sling and crawl back off the boat, to move it down the dock. Don’t leave the
boat under the hoist when others are waiting to use the hoist.

Check the boat over carefully again. Make sure the tiller is securely held to the rudder, and
check the hiking stick and the universal joint that connects it to the tiller.

Before you raise the sails, be sure the boat is pointed into the wind (in an east wind, this means
take the hull to the west side of the dock first). Don't unfurl or raise the jib until you're ready to
go, and furl or lower it as soon as you dock. In winds over 5 knots at the dock, leave the
mainsail down, too.

Raise the mainsail before raising or unfurling the jib. Make sure the mainsheet is uncleated, and
that the outhaul and vang are loosened. As you raise the mainsail, feed the rope on the front
edge of the sail into the groove in the mast (P15’s have plastic sail slides that stay in the groove,
and the rope stays outside the groove). If it's hard to raise all the way, loosen the outhaul and
boom vang.


Reefing

Reef the mainsail if the wind speed is so high and/or the crew's weight is so low that you can’t
keep the boat from heeling excessively on a close reach, even with the mainsail luffing at times.
Don’t luff the mainsail continually, it damages the cloth. Reef instead—you can easily unreef
when the wind comes down or you turn downwind.


Taking Over A Pre-Rigged Boat

If you take over a boat someone else rigged, check their job carefully. Make sure everything
needed is on board and properly stowed so you won't lose it in a capsize.


Derigging

If someone else wants your boat when you're done, be sure to sign it in and make sure they sign
it out. Otherwise you're responsible for derigging it and putting it away properly.
Use the hose to rinse the mast and boom while the boat is in the water. Rinsing off salt slows the
corrosion caused by salt water in contact with dissimilar metals (aluminum spars, stainless steel
fittings).

Lower the mainsail and raise the centerboard and rudder and cleat their uphauls. Get the dolly
under the hoist before you lift the hull.

It’s best to have two people available when hoisting the hull from the water. The person on the
dock should swing the bow around the hoist so the mast, shrouds, and (especially) the spreaders
don't strike the hoist. The person by the hoist catches the transom before the person on the dock
lets go of the bow painter, then lowers the hull onto the dolly.

Drain the hull before you put it away. Make a note in the log (on the dayleader’s desk) if there is
more than a quart of water inside the hull.

Rinse all the blocks on the hull and mast, and spray off any mud in the cockpit or on the anchor
or hull.

Make sure the salt is rinsed off the sails if you capsized or if there was a lot of spray.
Secure the mainsail (and jib, if it doesn’t have roller furling) to the boom with the mainsheet,
then cover with a sail cover.

It’s not necessary to tie the boat to its dolly. Nor is it necessary to put wood blocks behind the
wheels of the dollies in the yard; the dollies with front wheels have built in brakes on their front
wheels.

Don’t forget the paper work. Be sure to sign the boat back in.

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